through We were called to work in Sardinia in October, precisely in a nature reserve area called Costa Paradiso. So we departed, enthusiastic and curious to discover a new place, one that’s definitely out of the ordinary.
Sardinia is one of the largest regions in Italy, full of parks and naturally verdant areas with wide and long, breathtaking beaches. When I arrived, I figured we’d be on a wide and long beach, But I was wrong.
Once we left the ferry we drove towards Costa Paradiso and the road seemed endless. It was a beautiful October evening, we traveled through miles of barren and rocky fields where there was nothing, only goats and sheep grazing, no coffee bars, no houses, very few road signs and no streetlights along the way. We finally entered in Costa Paradiso – a rocky red chunk of Sardinia, scented of myrtle and rosemary, hidden by Mediterranean vegetation, a series of narrow streets that led to many houses: it looked like a labyrinth. We were tired from the heat and the journey so we went straight to bed. During the night wild boars came to visit, we could hear them from the window of our accommodation. That “visit” made it clear that we were in a wild and unique place.
The morning after, we looked up among the rocks and saw thousands of houses built in the thick rosemary bushes, nestled between the rocks. We asked about this and our client told us the story of how this place was born. At the end of the 1960s and beginning of the Seventies, came the development of the first villas (just a handful) including the summer home of the most famous couple of the time, filmmaker Michelangelo Antonioni and actress Monica Vitti. Today there are 3,500 houses and 2,500 owners, and approximately 200 of them live here year round.
We took a walk and chanced upon one of the most beautiful paths leading to the perfect cove that’s only accessible on foot by way of a scraggy path called Li Cossi. At the halfway point is an extraordinary viewpoint revealing bright colors, a secluded beach where the water is a breathtaking palette that ranges from turquoise to deep blue. The rocks surrounding it paint a red and pink frame.
The place is amazing with his wild soul. And while it’s true that in summer the area is geared for vacationers with services, we were there in October. In a nature reserve in the off-season all that’s there to admire is Nature at its best. During the day we walked alongside wild boars, at night the birds and the fresh air lulled us to sleep. The silence was absolutely perfect, creating a unique connection with Nature. In October daytime still felt like summer, and in the evening we’d sit outside under a blanket, watching the sunset. The light here is magical, bouncing off the red rocks and the green of the vegetation, it painted a picture that silenced us. This light play made the crystal clear waters shine even brighter.
photo by Laura Sabatino Getty Images
But this was not just a paradise for the eyes and the soul. There are flavors that are hard to forget on an emotional journey. One of these was the unmistakable sweet flavor of seadas, traditional fried pastry dessert filled with cheese and drizzled in dark honey. Born as a humble and nutritious dish, seadas were originally a specialty crafted by shepherds’ wives for their husbands’ return from work in the fields. This is a flavor I won’t forget and won’t easily find elsewhere. (maybe never!)
In summer the place comes to life with mini markets, boutiques, restaurants, coffee bars, swimming pools, bakeries, pharmacies, butchers and lovely places to sit and have aperitivo. Boat rentals and other micro-businesses are useful for short transfers. Costa Paradiso is not a little village but a world apart, a unique reality. Clearly, this is the part of wild Sardinia that’s less publicized, without a doubt. The kind of place we like to feature!
They say that nothing happens by chance, I like to think that if I ended up here, in the wildest part of greater Sardinia, it’s because it was meant to be, and I absolutely fell in love with Costa Paradiso.
