I’m just back from my most recent Italian adventure. Typically I always incorporate Rome into my itinerary for a variety of reasons, if not just to see Eleonora and Gina – really, what more reason does one need. This trip, sadly, was without one of these reunions. However, I do know the next one is simply around the corner. Stay tuned… This past trip was to do a little research and obviously have a bit of fun in Venice. I had never been. I will definitely return. What did I learn? When in Venice, cicchetti on!
Food is without a doubt a central focus for me when I travel, or when I don’t travel really. However, on the road? One must eat and drink as locally as possible, as much as possible. When accumulating recommendations, focus on the ones that are given by a local. Don’t be afraid to ask. They know best. For example, I just learned that when in Venice, do not eat at a restaurant that is located at the base of one of the bridges on the canals – not authentically local. More touristy. Food for thought indeed.
Cicchetti, non cicchettis
Eating in Venice translates to eating cicchetti (pronounced chee-kay-tee). Pausing for a linguistic lesson real quickly – one is cicchetto – two is cicchetti. There is no such thing as cicchettis – don’t do it! Leave that “s” in the States! Now that that is clarified, onto the bites. Quite simply, cicchetti are to Venice as tapas are to (pick your city) Spain. They are bite-sized snacks that one can find in bars and restaurants alike and they are not to be missed – and almost impossible to do so.
Bacari, non bacaros
Cicchetti are traditionally found in Venetian bars called bàcari – again one is bacaro, two are bacari – we are learning! A bacaro is a small bar that locals frequent throughout the day to have a drink or two, meet up with friends, and get the local news. People go to a bacaro to drink, not necessarily to eat. However, put snacks out, and the people will stay! This dates back centuries and these bacari continue to provide spaces for locals and visitors alike to eat, drink, and be merry.
Cosa bevi?
What to drink with these nuggets of flavor? Well, naturally a Spritz of your choosing. However the other less obvious, less known, but more authentic choice is an ombra. An ombra, which translates to ‘shade’ in Italian, is a small glass of house wine poured from a tap. The origins of the word date back centuries to when the wine sellers on the street would seek out the shade as the ferocious sun of July and August would hit. Thus an ombra was born out of the sun and into the hand of the thirsty Venetians. Not many bacari still sells these, but we were lucky enough to taste one at Osteria Al Portego. If you go on the weekend, you may see a bachelor/bachelorette party, or seven. Although from what I saw, it seemed they were drinking something a bit heavier/larger than a ombra! Nevertheless, good fun was had by all.
So let’s talk cicchetti. What did I eat? What didn’t I eat? Beautifully soft, UNTOASTED, bread covered with anchovies, sardines, cheeses, veggies, and baccalà mantecato. Oh the beautiful baccalà. How I love you so. Another popular one is covered in sweet and sour onions call saor. There were traditional ones of these sorts, but it was also fun to see what sort of creative combinations different bacari came up with. We saw avocados, pumpkin puree, spicy meats, tuna and shrimp salad. This is just the beginning. One cannot forget the fried cicchetti. Various polpette, fried vegetables galore, and the king of them all, mozzarella in carrozza. Divine intervention, in fried cheese form.
Undoubtedly there is no shortage of snacking in Venice. We ate cicchetti as an appetizer in a restaurant, standing up at a bar, and walking through the streets. Heck! We even ate cicchetti in a gondola! We sure did! Have cicchetti, will travel! These snacks are the backbone of Venetian cuisine and culture. They are a must.
I hope that you are booking your next travels soon. And when you do, please remember to eat and drink as locally as possible. Taste the true flavor of the place you are visiting. Now, if you are headed to Venice soon, I’ll be expecting an email from you to carolyn@casamiatours.com. Time to get your cicchetti on! Andiamo!
