Abruzzo is a region of rugged mountains, quiet valleys, and centuries-old traditions. Its remote landscapes shaped a way of life centered on shepherding and simplicity. The cuisine of this region reflects this heritage, where necessity dictated resourcefulness. Le Virtù is a typical Abruzzo dish enjoyed on May 1st. Another one of the region’s culinary treasures, is Arrosticini, a humble yet iconic lamb dish that embodies the spirit of the region.
Arrosticini born from Transumanza
Let’s take a step back. For generations, the shepherds of Abruzzo relied on the transumanza—a twice-yearly migration of large flocks of sheep between lowland winter pastures and highland summer grazing grounds, crossing very long distances.
This seasonal movement shaped the local agriculture and sustained the region’s economy. The Abruzzo region was among the most isolated and destitute areas of the country. The dense network of tratturi (paths as wide as modern-day highways), is well documented as originating as early as ancient Roman times.
The golden age of this flock drive occurred, however, between the 16th and 17th centuries when the sheep that traveled from Abruzzo all the way to Puglia, were more than 4 million. Shepherds and breeders in Abruzzo herded their flocks south in winter for the seasonal transumanza migration and stayed away from home for nearly eight months of the year.
This ancient practice began to decline following the Unification of Italy. In 1864 a law passed recognizing the rights of farmers whose lands were crossed by the pasture routes. The majority prohibited the treading of flocks on their properties to preserve the crops, while some allowed passage but charged tolls. In 1908, the Italian parliament reduced the hundreds of migration routes to a mere four.
After the Transumanza
With the decline of transumanza, Abruzzo became even more sequestered. An isolation that finally broke in part thanks to the construction of infrastructure after WWII, and in part with the growth of tourism. Attracted by the storied past of Abruzzo, travelers are now eager to learn its ancient ways. Including the practice of moving flocks which has since become more “vertical”.
That is, drives now take place in close-by areas located at low elevations and hike up to the mountain plateaus in the spring-summer period when the valley floor parches without heading to a distant area. Then, in mid-September, the sheep are herded back down to the valley at the end of their lush high-altitude pasture extravaganza.
The extraordinary value expressed by transumanza has generated, in this unique territory, strong historical-archaeological, anthropological, social and cultural traits as well as gastronomic ones.
Arrosticini are a symbol of Abruzzo
Rooted in transumanza tradition, arrosticini (called rustelle in local dialect) are a testament to this ancient practice.
The dish originated as a practical meal for shepherds on the move, a part of transumanza that survived after the routes were erased. Small cuts of lamb that were readily available and easy to cook, became the foundation for these tiny skewers. The dish, once born of necessity, is now a beloved symbol of Abruzzo’s culinary identity.
My first Arrosticini experience
I first encountered arrosticini while filming The American on location in Campo Imperatore. A vast plateau at nearly 2,000 meter (6,500 ft) elevation, also known as, “the little Tibet” of Abruzzo. The crew was on a short break and base camp (where all production vans, trailers and trucks are parked) was set up in the rest area opposite a small butcher. A shack in the middle of the vast plains at the foot of Gran Sasso, central Italy’s highest peak. Isolated in the flat expanse, crowned by rugged snow-capped mountains, the butcher is a favorite pit stop for bikers on day trips, and skiers on their way to the nearby slopes.
Inside the small shop, the staff sells you the meats of your choice (sausages, arrosticini by the dozens, pancetta, steaks). Outside, they hand you salt and a box of matches. Beside the many camping tables, you’ll find dozens of long coal-fired grills where you can freely cook your meat and then eat it in the sun.
I have since returned many times to that butcher in the middle of nowhere, and have enjoyed hundreds of arrosticini! If visiting Abruzzo is not part of your plans yet (stay tuned for new tours dropping soon!) you can always recreate the experience in your backyard.
Making arrosticini at home
In Abruzzo, you can find arrosticini virtually everywhere. Here’s a fun YouTube video in English on how Abruzzo butchers prepare their arrosticini by the hundreds. In Rome I’ve seen them at select butchers, some grocery stores sell them ready for the grill. Whether you build your own custom “fornacella” or use a standard barbecue, here’s how to achieve that unique flavor of Abruzzo.
Ingredients
- 800g ovine meat (mutton or lamb) leg, neck, belly or shoulder cuts, or a mix of these
- Sea salt
- Juice of half a lemon, optional
Method
To prepare the arrosticini, soak wooden skewers in water for 20 minutes to prevent burning. If using metal skewers, oil the thinnest ones you have. Thread the small cubes of lamb tightly onto the skewers, alternating fatty parts and leaving 3 inches at the bottom as “handles”.
Light the coals and wait until the embers are stable and not flaming.
Place skewers on the grill so that handles extend past the coals, suspending your arrosticini directly above the hot coals, and allowing you to turn them without burning yourself.
Cook for 1-2 minutes per side, turning frequently to ensure even cooking. This happens very quickly! Sprinkle the cooked arrosticini with salt and serve immediately. A squeeze of lemon juice is optional.
Tips from the shepherd
Cosimo, a shepherd from Calascio, shared his advice for perfect homemade arrosticini:
- Use lamb with at least 25% fat for tender, juicy and flavorful arrosticini;
- The fatty lamb will drip: don’t cook over flames to avoid charring/inferno;
- Hold the sauces: serve with only a bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and crusty sourdough bread;
- To build your custom fornacella, you can use use an open section of a metal drainpipe. Prop it up and screw it to hairpin metal legs, or on metal rods that can function as legs:
- Fill the drainpipe with charcoal briquettes and grill away! The narrow shape of the pipe will ensure your arrosticini cook to perfection
Beyond the plate
Exploring Abruzzo through its cuisine offers a window into a region where food, history, and tradition are inseparable. Arrosticini is more than a dish—it’s a connection to Abruzzo’s past. The shepherds tending their flocks, habits shaped by tradition, and a culture that values simplicity and flavor. When you grill arrosticini, you partake in a ritual that has endured for centuries. Will you try making arrosticini at home?
