It is said that along the southern Italian coast of Campania, the sirens hypnotized sailors with their singing, as told in the Odyssey by Greek poet Homer. It’s no surprise given the epic beauty of the place, especially the area of Massa Lubrense.
Massa Lubrense, where the sirens bewitched sailors of Homeric fame
We were called to work in Massa Lubrense, so we departed, happy and curious to discover a new place. We had already visited the Amalfi Coast in the past and we knew its beauty and tourist chaos, but this place is the exception to the rule: not a trace of traffic and mass tourism in sight.
The car journey to reach the place was quite long considering the summer heat but when we arrived the Signora made us feel at home and her Villa was a wonderful discovery. We were the fortunate guests of a fantastic lady who owns beautiful luxury accommodation in Sorrento, Massa Lubrense and Castellammare di Stabia.
Leaving the crowds behind, we arrived in Massa Lubrense: a quiet corner with promenades overlooking the sea, citrus groves with crazy views of the sea! Plus prestigious restaurants, majestic villas, all in a picture postcard setting.
The place where we were called to work is called Annunziata and it is a hamlet with elegant restaurants, a breathtaking little square with romantic views, fields and fruit crops. It offers a mixture of history and art with an important convent and small shops hidden among white alleys full of steps. Tucked away are artisans where we bought local products to bring home.
The places where we ate in Massa Lubrense
A note to keep in mind is the restaurant directly in the Piazza dell’Annunziata, where we had the pleasure of dining thanks to the Signora, owner of the villa. Fresh fish dishes and starters, the catch of the day baked au gratin with seasonal vegetables, the spaghetti with capers from Salina and colatura di alici (garum) was sublime!
Impossible not to mention the beauty of the local ceramics used as the table setting, the plates and glasses a true riot of color.
Then we discovered Marina della Lobra, the lower part of the village where we were staying. Overlooking the sea with a picturesque little port reachable on foot along a road that starts from the center of Massa and in 15 minutes brings you straight down to the sea. In high season it is impossible to drive here, as it’s absolutely not feasible: the roads are very narrow, parking is almost non-existent. Best to hire a private driver!
Marina della Lobra is like a colorful postcard, the houses facing the sea with clothes hung to dry in the sun, yellow and blue facades with red and blue windows, the fishermen’s boats frame all this and a few colorful 3-wheel Vespas become the highlight of this little watercolor painting.
After working, we decided to stay at the little harbor to eat and right there we found a delicious little place that made us an excellent plate of spaghetti with fresh anchovies and butter. At the end of the little harbor begins a beautiful walk called San Montano where they say there is a lot of positive energy, amidst the iridescent colors of the water that go from blue to emerald.
It was indeed a poetic, if brief, full-immersion into the local food and wine scene, and in the evening at the Villa we ate a delicious and mouth-watering Parmigiana di Melanzane and the excellent zucchine alla scapece, and to finish a delicious handmade local digestivo made with wild fennel.
How can you not fall in love with these small, often unknown places like Massa Lubrense?
Exceptional scenery, excellent cuisine, old houses and monuments, in the alleys tanned ladies dressed in white linen with straw hats framed a wonderful summer scene of the 70’s, yet being at a short distance from Sorrento I assure you that it has a completely different vibe!
On the last day we went to see the bay, where legend has it that Odysseus met the Sirens who tried to lure him with their song. In this inlet amidst white rocks and alleys with hairpin curves, houses perched on the cliffs, it’s actually easy to be enchanted. It is a protected marine nature reserve of great charm and certainly a special place for lovers of hiking and adventurous treks.
It was a beautiful experience, but also a pleasure. The friendliness and welcome so typical of the Italian south will always stay in our hearts, plus we had the honor of meeting Signora Maria Rosaria and her villa, a special person indeed. We will remember Massa Lubrense and its quiet charm with affection.
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