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CampaniaCasaMiaWeekend Guide

Weekend Escape to Ischia off-season

By February 1, 2023October 13th, 2024No Comments

Our “Weekend escape to…” series offers readers 48-hour guides providing failsafe insight, great tips and original suggestions. Today we lend some insider knowledge on how to make the best of a long, off-season weekend on the island of Ischia.

weekend escape to ischia off-season

Few places evoke the mythological legacy of the Mediterranean as powerfully as the island of Ischia. With its blaze of bougainvillea cascading from balconies, lizards darting between dry walls of volcanic tufa, and cliffs rearing up over turquoise beaches, Ischia feels more like a page out of the Odyssey than a popular Italian holiday destination. But with some of the oldest and best thermal baths in the world (Virgil and Pliny commended the healing powers of Ischia’s hot springs), myriad beaches and food that blends mountain tradition with the freshness of the sea, Capri‘s less ostentatious neighbor is the perfect place to experience southern Italy.

weekend escape to ischia off season

Over the years a growing number of visitors has chosen Ischia for their holidays. Yet there are two distinct types of Ischia visitors: the summer vacationers, and the spa-enthusiasts. The latter fall in the smaller group of travelers who choose their holiday in the low season. During the summer months Ischia is fun and buzzing, however it is also crowded, hot and more expensive. On the other hand, Ischia off-season is a true paradise. Furthermore, spa treatments are recommended (and more affordable) in the cooler weather. So at the beginning of the season (April to June) and then after the July/August crowds have left, there is a specific type of visitor that takes pleasure in the island and its many thermal hot springs in September and October. Smart.

The best time to travel to Ischia

I visited Ischia for the first time in early October. Packed a bathing suit and a wool sweater pulled out from my cambio di stagione boxes. I did not know what to expect. I’ve stopped trusting the internet for faithful portraits of places I have not been to yet. Up until this fall, my Campania coastal and island stays have only been to Naples, where I lived for almost three years, Positano where I vacationed my entire childhood and adolescence, Capri and Sorrento, and more recently, Cilento. Full stop. 

weekend escape to ischia off season

Drawing from personal experience, this article is the account of a weekend escape to Ischia during the off-season. You can then glean your own opinion as to which time of year is best to visit.

Given my love-at-first-sight reaction to Ischia, I cannot imagine queuing up to the mini-taxi line outside the main port in July or August. Fighting for tables at restaurants. Climbing on buses and having to bear the stench of underarms that inevitably comes with public transportation in the summer. So I am biased. Off-season it is. I urge you to visit Ischia and “take to the waters” in the low season, to fully enjoy its unique charm and variety. 

weekend escape to ischia off season

A little history: Ischia the strong, mysterious land of wine and hot springs

The history of Ischia starts around 700 BCE when it was discovered by the Greeks. The first name given to the island was Pithecusae and there are several theories as to why this name was chosen. Folklore suggests that the island was named after the ancient Greek word pithikos, for “monkey” due to a belief that the island was inhabited by primates at the time. However, most modern scholars attest that the name was first mentioned in a letter from Pope Leo III to Charlemagne in 813: the name iscla maior mentioned there would allegedly derive from the Latin “insula,” though there is an argument made in favor of the Semitic origin term I-schra for ‘black island.’

Around 322 BCE the Romans seized Pithecusae (as well as Naples), changing the history of the island forever. Under Roman control and occupation, the name of Pithecusae given by the Greeks was discarded in favor of Ænaria, meaning “land of wine” due to its excellent vineyards. The island that goes by many names may however also owe its modern moniker to the Greek word ισχυρός (ischyrós) which means “strong” and “powerful.” At the time the island was appreciated for A) its thermal waters, and B) because it was a naturally impregnable fortress.

ischia off season

Despite the island’s rich hot springs –– something that the Romans valued very highly –– Emperor Augustus was discouraged by the island’s history of volcanic eruptions. So he gave back Ænaria to Naples in exchange for Capri, and the big island was left to its own resources; pillaged and invaded by waves of barbarians. Ischia then changed hands many times between this time and the early 13th century. After centuries of political wrangling between the French and the Spanish, finally during the Italian Unification in 1862, Ischia was annexed to the province of Naples. 

angelo rizzoli invented tourism in ischia

Tourism on Ischia

After World War II, tourism started in the 1950s when successful Milanese publisher and film producer Angelo Rizzoli first visited the tiny fishing village of Lacco Ameno on Ischia. He invested in infrastructure and pointed the tourism compass on the sleepy island. For the following decades, the jet set and a remarkable colony of writers, composers and visual artists flocked to Ischia. Among these was Truman Capote; he vacationed here for three months in 1949 after his first book Other Voices, Other Rooms was published. W. H. Auden composed his poem In Praise of Limestone here, the first he wrote in Italy. In 1949, British classical composer Sir William Walton settled in Ischia. A barge scene of the 1963 film Cleopatra starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton was filmed on the island. Charlie Chaplin loved Ischia. Luchino Visconti was a regular.

More recently, in Elena Ferrante’s series of My Brilliant Friend novels, the island serves as the setting of several summer holidays of the main characters. 

48 hours on Ischia

The undeniable mysterious and eclectic charm of Ischia was a pleasant surprise. Lazy days at the beach, glorious meals and state of the art thermal hot springs minus the crowds is my idea of a perfect vacation. Here is my suggestion on how to spend a long weekend escape to Ischia during the off-season.

Ischia off season

FRIDAY

Plan to arrive at midday. This allows you to squeeze in a swim at the beach. Ever heard of Ottobrata? Warm autumn days that still feel like summer, gorgeous sunsets and nary a selfie-stick waving tourist in sight. High-speed trains depart Rome Termini station for Napoli Centrale every hour. A quick taxi ride (12 Euro fixed price) from the Naples central train station brings you to the Beverello hydrofoil departures terminal. Three companies offer connections with Ischia: Alilauro, SNAV and Caremar. Some routes include a stop in the island of Procida first, so wait until you hear “Ischiaaa!” being called out by the ferry staff.

Ischia has six cities: the name of the main city is Ischia, where the largest port is located; the other cities are Barano, Casamicciola, Forio, Lacco Ameno and Sant’Angelo (aka Serrara Fontana). Depending on where your hotel is located, choose a vessel that disembarks in Ischia Porto, Forio or Casamicciola.

12:00 PM

Check in and drop your luggage at the hotel. Hotel della Regina Isabella, San Montano Resort and Mezzatorre rank as the best. On the Aragon rock is Albergo il Monastero. Friends and clients swear by the family-run Hotel il Grifo. If you prefer a holiday rental, the island offers a multitude of lodging solutions for every budget, from studio apartments with sea views, to entire villas with swimming pools.

san montano resort ischia

Slip on a bathing suit and grippy shoes, and hit the shore. The island offers a variety of rocky and sandy beaches with kiosks and restaurants. A favorite spot for lounging & lunch is Giardino Eden, in the eastern Bay of Cartaromana. A solarium deck with easy access to the emerald sea, heated pools, a cocktail bar, friendly staff and a very good restaurant.

giardino eden ischia
The sun deck at Giardino Eden on Ischia

Another favorite is the casual Bar Gino on the beach in Casamicciola. Amazing bruschettas, huge salads and sandwiches. Nothing beats taking a post-lunch nap in the shade, laying on one of the lounge beds facing the shore.

bar gino ischia
Salads at Bar Gino on Ischia

While dawn breaks on the eastern side of Ischia, the best place for sunsets is Forio. Change into something warm, especially if you plan on dining al fresco. 

7:00 PM

Reserve ahead to have dinner at La Cantinola di Zio Jack. The restaurant staff picks guests up in Forio with a Jeep that climbs up the mountain on narrow vertical dirt roads. The reward for this adventure is a stunning view, delicious food and wine with most of the products grown on the property. Menu highlights include parmigiana di melanzane and pasta e patate served en croute in an earthenware bowl. Meat lovers will enjoy massive fire-grilled steaks. Leave room for dessert and Zio Jack’s homemade amaro. 2024 UPDATE – Sadly this gem has permanently closed

zio jack on ischia
Terrace seating at La Cantinola di Zio Jack

Fish lovers on the other hand should head over to Ristorante Emanuela, which serves some of the best seafood on Ischia. At the helm are Emanuela’s sons Sergio and Filippo. Don’t miss out on the linguine Emanuela: a rich and spicy blend of shellfish, tomato and chili pepper that goes best with the island’s white wine.

Whatever the menu, take a digestive seaside passeggiata before calling it a night. Unless you’re up for gelato, in which case family-run Trani Pasticceria is your last stop for the night: the best dark chocolate gelato on Ischia.

SATURDAY

10:00 AM 

You can have breakfast at your hotel (and maybe a dip in a hot jacuzzi), or in Forio at Bar Pasticceria Fratelli Calise. Do as the locals do and order a macchiato and a graffa, a local fried donut smothered in sugar. 

weekend escape to ischia off season

Next, make your way to visit the Castello Aragonese. The castle stands on a volcanic rocky islet connected to the larger island of Ischia by a causeway. The castle was built by Hiero I of Syracuse in 474 BCE. The rock was then occupied by Parthenopeans (ancient inhabitants of Naples). In 326 BCE, the fortress was captured by the Romans but then won back by the Parthenopeans. In 1441 Alfonso V of Aragon connected the rock to the island with a stone bridge replacing the prior wood bridge, and fortified the walls in order to defend the inhabitants against pirate raids. Amazing views. Open daily from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm.

1:00 PM

You can either stay on the rock and dine at the magnificent restaurant of Albergo Il Monastero, or climb down and slurp a plate of spaghetti and clams at Ristorante Bar da Cocò at the opposite side of the causeway.

3:00 PM

After a restorative nap/swim, prepare to swirl in your glass Ischia’s award-winning wine on a guided vineyard visit and wine tasting.

Ischia was once named Ænaria for its affinity to growing grapes for wine. The island is famous for its prized white Biancolella and red Piedirosso (aka per ‘e palummo). A vineyard tour is a must when visiting the island. At the end of September the Panza district hosts Cantinando Sotto le Stelle, evening explorations of all the wineries of the island, offering tastings and cellar tours. 

la bajola ischia

Natural wine lovers should definitely visit the vineyards and taste the wines of La Bajola. This is, simply put, an island on the island. Wine producer Francesco Iacono with his wife Antonella and their daughter Alice, has pushed his enological extremism going beyond organic practices (something he’s done since the beginning in 2001) and headed straight to biodynamic farming and winemaking.

At Cantine Pietratorcia you can stay for dinner at the estate’s restaurant, or the winery’s other dining outpost housed in a bookstore, Antica Libreria Mattera.

To cap off the night, you could check the concert schedule at Giardini della Mortella (Sir William Walton’s estate).

SUNDAY

9:00 AM 

After breakfast, jump on the number 1 or 2 bus from Ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (or take a taxi) to the thermal water spas. Ischia is the largest thermal waters destination in Europe, with 300 spas known for alkaline waters and thermal gardens used since ancient times. 

Synonymous with well-being and relaxation, natural spas and hot springs are a gift of nature that everyone needs to experience and enjoy at some point in life. The thermal waters not only have infinite and well-known healing properties, but, in most cases, they are often located in gorgeous landscapes and close to places of great historical interest. Thanks to its complex geological composition, Italy is punctuated by many natural hot springs. Rich in sulfur and an array of other minerals, these natural waters have endless health and beauty benefits like curing skin diseases and relieving high blood pressure, joint pain and digestive ailments.

thermal water spas ischia off season

Italians take to the waters at least once a year. It’s a given. Restorative and replenishing, putting health and wellness first. Whether it’s the digestive benefits of the waters Italians drink in Montecatini, the hot springs of Saturnia, the sulfur bullicame pools in Northern Lazio, the Cave of the Nymphs in Calabria, the waters of Lake Garda or the mud baths of Sicily, Italians are historically in tune with the ancient Roman concept of Salus Per Aquam, Latin for “health by water” (the modern day word, ‘spa’ is an acronym of this). 

The volcanic region of Campania offers a wide range of different thermal treatments, with Ischia’s volcanic activity in the subsoil generating numerous sources of thermal steam, over the centuries employed for the creation of thermal spas. For obvious reasons, all the hot springs and spas mentioned below are best if visited in the colder weather. Another off-season perk. Listed here are our favorite private and free terme in Ischia. 

parco negombo ischia
Parco Negombo

Favorite thermal spas on Ischia

Thermal and marine pools, rare and wild vegetation from around the world, Mediterranean maquis, forests, gardens, lush floral areas, the sea and volcanic rock: all enclosed in a single, magical and fascinating jungle. Welcome to Parco Negombo, a thermal water spa located in the bay of San Montano, in the city of Lacco Ameno.

With 14 pools of various temperatures, including sea water, thermal pools, therapeutic Kneipp circuits, cave therapy and a private beach, this green oasis was conceived as a natural extension of the landscape. The facility also has a wellness center with steam room, indoor swimming pool and an array of beauty treatments. In addition, there are bars and restaurants facing the sea within panoramic gardens decorated with abundant blooms and seasonal fruit trees. The hot springs flow on a hillside that slopes gently towards the sea: on each level there are pools of varying temperatures and relaxation areas surrounded by dense vegetation. Waters are mineral with a dry mineral residue greater than 1 gram per liter; hyper-thermal, meaning they flow at the source above 40°C (104°F), and are salty-alkaline, i.e. rich in sodium chloride. Scattered around the 9-hectare property is contemporary and modern art by artists like Arnaldo Pomodoro and Lucio Del Pezzo.

Prices for a full day at Negombo start at 50 Euro per person and vary depending on the season. Open daily from mid April to early October. Bathing cap not required. Children are welcome and can access two seawater swimming pools and the beach. Height requirement to access the thermal pools is 1.40 meters and up. Pets are not allowed.

parco negombo spa on ischia
Giardini Poseidon

The largest hot springs spa on Ischia is home to 22 different pools in the manicured terraces of Giardini Poseidon. The establishment was founded by a German doctor in 1959, and is German-owned to this day. The property includes a wellness center, two restaurants and a wine cave, plus a sauna carved into the rocks. There are sea water swimming pools (covered and open-air) and thermal pools of varying size and temperature. No chlorine is used: every night after closing time (6 pm) all the pools are drained and refilled with the natural spring or sea water, ready for the next day’s guests.

The full day entry ticket is 38-45 Euro per person, depending on the season. Price includes access to all the pools, and the private beach of Citara (one of the largest sandy beaches on the island). Also included in the price are changing rooms, showers and beach chairs. Don’t want to rent a locker and a terry cloth robe? Bring your own and don’t forget flip flops. Bathing caps are mandatory. Kids under 11 have access to only one salt water swimming pool and the beach. Pets are not allowed.

Free thermal spas on Ischia

There are also a number of free thermal spas on the island. The Fumarole dei Maronti offers the free healing properties of hot water and hot sand, ideal for those suffering from rheumatic pains. In some spots the sand is burning hot from the steam rising from the volcanic faults, ranging from 46° to 100°C (115-210°F). Fumarole is located at an easy 10-minute stroll from the village of Sant’Angelo. 

sorgeto weekend escape ischia off season
Sorgeto

Terme libere di Sorgeto nestled beneath cliffs overlooking the sea is totally free. The 250-step footpath snaking from the main road in Forio can be discouraging, but totally worth it. At the bottom is a rocky cove where hot spring water pours into the sea, creating steaming shallow pools. Here you can benefit from thalassotherapy and the healing properties of radon (rare beneficial gas that bubbles up from under the surface of the sea).

In addition to bathing in the miraculous water, you can also apply the sea floor mud for natural facials and body wraps. Let it dry and cake, after rinsing it off your skin will feel silky and smooth. During the summer months the bar-restaurant on the small inlet offers a fun aperitivo service: drinks come delivered to you on a floating tray with small plates of fried fish and vegetables. Very hot and crowded during the day, this is perfect for a sunset to night time dip.

Bring footwear suitable for walking on the hot and slippery rocks. If you’re not up to the climb back up, taxi del mare comes to the rescue. The boat service run by Cooperativa San Michele departs from Sant’Angelo and shuttles to various locations for 5 euro per person.

Nonno Ore' ischia
Nonno Oré

Boat excursions around Ischia

If hot springs are not your thing, do consider chartering a boat to tour Ischia by sea. There are a number of companies: Summer Breeze Ischia can arrange full day tours on the water. They have a fleet of sailboats and motor boats with a skipper. Or you can rent out self-driven zodiacs. A favorite vessel for daytime or nighttime excursions with meals on board is the Nonno Oré. This is the last traditional Italian wooden sailing workboat “navicello” existing in the Mediterranean. Dating back to 1923, the completely renovated boat is 17 meters (56 ft) long with an engine that develops a cruising speed of 9 knots. The vessel has a large relax area fitted with cushions, overhead shade and a large dining table. There is a hot shower and restroom on board.

Scuba divers can join underwater explorations with ANS Diving Ischia, one of the best diving centers on the island. The more adventurous can even see Ischia’s famous red and black coral.

rabbit stew ischia style
Coniglio all’ischitana – rabbit stew

9:00 PM 

Bid farewell to the island with one final dinner before departing the next morning. Pizza lovers can get their pie on at La Bella Napoli in Forio. Typical Taverna Verde “da Morzariello” in Serrara Fontana is family-run and in business for more than fifty years. The kitchen offers some of the island’s most authentic cuisine. Order coniglio all’ischitana rabbit stew: a local game specialty seasoned with the piperna herb that only grows on the island. Located at 240 meters above sea level, the restaurant overlooks the village of Panza. Arrive early to catch the evocative winter sunsets over the sea. 

Sated and replenished by the day’s baths –– as you watch the sun dip into the Mediterranean –– you’ll find yourself planning your next visit. Hopefully in the off-season.

weekend escape to ischia off season

How to get around

Ischia is a large island. It is five times the size of Capri. Ferries only allow locals to commute with the mainland using their cars. If you don’t plan on renting a vehicle, take public buses or taxis; the latter can be quite expensive. A one-way taxi ride from Ischia Porto to Forio can end up costing you over 40 euro. Add more if you have luggage. The main bus terminal is located opposite the port in Ischia. Click for a list of bus lines connecting the various towns.

ISCHIA IN 48 HOURS

Where to Stay

Mezzatorre Hotel & Spa
San Montano Resort & Spa
Hotel Regina Isabella 
Albergo Il Monastero
Grifo Hotel

Where to Eat

Giardino Eden – Open April-October – Via Nuova Cartaromana, 62 – 80077 Ischia NA – Tel. +39 081 985015
Bar Gino – Open April-October – Via Tommaso Morgera, Litorale Suor Angela –  80074 Casamicciola Terme NA – Tel. +39 3385875441
Ristorante Bar da Cocò – Ponte Aragonese, 1 – 80077 Ischia NA – Tel. +39 081 981823
Bar Pasticceria Fratelli Calise – Via F. Regine, 25 – 80075 Forio NA – Tel. +39 081997283
Trani Pasticceria – Via Giovanni da Procida, 9 – 80077 Ischia NA – Tel. +39 08119172166
Ristorante Emanuela – Via Fondolillo, Località Fumarole – Tel. +39 081999697
La Bella Napoli – Via Marina, 18 – 80075 Forio NA – Tel. +39 081986392
Taverna Verde “da Morzariello” – Via Ciglio, 148 – 80081 Serrara Fontana (NA) – Tel. +39 081999384
Antica Libreria Mattera – Via Cesare Calise – 80075 Forio NA – Tel. +39 0813332037

What to do

Parco Negombo – Thermal water spa
Giardini Poseidon – Thermal water spa
La Bajola a Ischia – Natural wine producer
Cantina Pietratorcia – Winery and restaurant
Castello Aragonese – Castle on the rock
Giardini della Mortella – William Walton Foundation gardens
Summer Breeze Ischia – boat excursions
Cooperativa San Michele – sea shuttle service, boat excursions
Nonno Oré Motonave – boat excursions, info and booking call Oreste +39 3336316395
ANS Diving Ischia – diving center

How to get there

Ischia is an easy day trip from Naples or an excellent home base for exploring top travel destinations in the region like Naples, Amalfi, Positano, Pompeii, the islands of Capri and Procida, and more. 

Hydrofoils and ferries connect the mainland year round. There are more frequent routes in summer, except for extremely adverse weather, there is always a way to travel to and from Ischia. A hydrofoil ride from Naples Beverello to Ischia Porto is around 40 minutes, starting at 20-25 Euros one-way + baggage fees.

Contact us for info on custom food itineraries, private limo service, boat or hiking excursions and other bespoke activities on and around Ischia.

Weekend escape to Ischia off season

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