I can hardly believe I left NYC 15 years ago. I had a fun job working on the business expansion of ‘wichcraft, Tom Colicchio’s gourmet sandwich shops. It was my switch from the corporate world to food (thank you Tom, Jeffrey, and Sisha for taking a chance on me and my passion for food and cooking combined with my business savvy). In between the business part of my role, I spent time in the kitchen, mainly baking. I have always loved getting my hands dirty in dough, be it pasta, pastry or bread. I spent peaceful Saturday mornings with Erica, the pastry chef, making grissini, cookies and cake with buttercream frosting.
Before I left for my Italian adventure, Tom signed a copy of his book “Think Like a Chef” for me. It sits on my kitchen shelf in Rome, nuzzled between my other warriors. In the book, Tom explains the techniques of roasting, braising, blanching, stock-making and sauce-making. Essential techniques that free me from recipes when I shop at food markets.
There is something deeply satisfying about walking through food markets, touching the fruits and vegetables, chatting with the vendors and picking the perfect ingredients for a dish that comes to life on the spot. I mostly keep it simple and use fresh, seasonal produce, fish and meat.
I close my eyes and I’m with my grandmother at the chicken house. She selects the most handsome bird. She did not go to a supermarket to buy only chicken thighs or breasts. We eat nose to tail, or beak to rump, in this case.
Cooking was always easy and joyful in her home. She nurtured our family through food and love. Or love and food. I’m not quite certain of the order. They blur together and overflow. Ma transformed simple chicken into pollo alla cacciatora like no other that I’ve tasted; tender with a splash of tomato and lots of juice to sop up with crusty Italian bread. I remember asking her why Mom’s chicken cacciatore wasn’t as delicious as hers. Her reply “When she’s my age, it will be. Just wait”. Ma left us too long ago. I think of her every time I make cacciatora.
Here’s my recipe, not for chicken, but for coniglio alla cacciatora (yes folks, that’s rabbit).
Ingredients:
- 2 lbs rabbit, cut into pieces
- 4 rosemary sprigs
- 1 whole clove + 2 minced cloves of garlic
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 3 tbsp. white wine vinegar
- Enough extra virgin olive oil to coat the entire bottom of the pan
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Salt
- Optional: Gaeta olives to taste
Instructions:
Season the rabbit with salt and pepper.
Add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan along with the garlic clove and 1/2 of the rosemary. Infuse over medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes. When the smell of the herbs is strong remove them and set aside.
Brown the rabbit on all sides until golden in color.
Pour in vinegar and wine and bring to a boil. Allow liquid to reduce for a few minutes and add back the reserved herbs, extra garlic and rosemary. Reduce to a gentle simmer and put on the lid. Cook for 1 hour until the meat falls off the bone. Check pan every so often and add water if need be.
If using olives, add toward the end of cooking.
Let sit for at least 1 hour when cooked to allow the flavors to meld. It tastes even better the following day.
