Sicily is our happy place. Part of Italy but with a character all its own, Sicily finds a way to latch onto people. We have helped many people visit Sicily over the years, and spend as much time here as we can. While the entire island is filled with things to see, do and taste, we find that visitors often follow a similar itinerary, so in this post we want to show you how to discover Sicily in all her glory.
Why We Love Sicily
There are so many reasons to love Sicily, but for us, it is the island’s particular mix of history and cultural influences and how these have shaped the people, the language and the cuisine. It also helps that the landscapes in Sicily are absolutely breathtaking!
Sicilian Cuisine
We couldn’t start anywhere else but with the food in Sicily. Fresh seafood, vegetables, citrus fruits, nuts and olives are everywhere, and while the people of Sicily have gone through some extremely lean periods, they have a long history of making the most of the local produce.
Italian classics like cannoli and arancini originated in Sicily before spreading all over the world, so you have to try the real deal while you’re here. And don’t forget the endless Sicilian wine options, shaped by the hot sun, volcanic soil from Mount Etna and the salty breeze from the Mediterranean Sea.
Ancient Sites
Home to some of Italy’s oldest cities and towns, Sicily was controlled by the ancient Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, Arabs, the Normans, Germanic kingdoms, the French and the Spanish before becoming part of Italy, so there are a lot of places across the island where you can see this history unfold.
Ancient temples at Agrigento and Selinunte give way to the Greek theater carved into the cliffs of Taormina. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Villa Romana del Casale at Piazza Armerina has some of the most extensive and vibrant ancient Roman mosaics anywhere. The Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo is the oldest royal residence anywhere in Europe, and the Palatine Chapel inside is where you’ll find a fascinating architectural style blending Arab and Norman details.
Ancient ruins and archaeological sites are everywhere, so Sicily is a must for history lovers!
The Sicilian Landscape
One of our favorite things about Sicily however is the landscape. From the imposing slopes of Mount Etna to the beautiful sandy beaches of Cefalu, we are never not impressed.
The variation is incredible. At the Zingaro nature reserve in the north of the island near Palermo, you’ll find gentle slopes covered in trees and greenery, facing out to the sparkling blue sea. Go inland just a little and you’ll be surrounded by tall hills covered in olive trees with only a small town or two visible in the distance. On the south coast between Taormina and Catania it’s all steep cliffs with Etna in the background.
You can drive across Sicily in only a few hours, but the wide variation in landscape means you’ll be glued to the window the whole time – we have many, many photos taken out of car windows in our library!
With all these things to admire, how do you discover Sicily fully? Well, here are our top suggestions for getting a different perspective of the island and her people:
Sicily’s Baroque Cities
First up are the Baroque cities of Noto, Modica and Ragusa in southwestern Sicily. While they are not quite hidden gems anymore, these cities see a fraction of the visitor numbers that go to Siracusa and Taormina.
Noto is the largest and most well-known of the three, but all are very much worth visiting. The reason for their fame starts with tragedy; a severe earthquake hit the region in 1693 causing widespread deaths and huge amounts of property damage. In Noto, the town decided to start over, building a completely new city a little closer to the coast. This was carefully planned and built to reflect what the people wanted, creating a stunning city center filled with grand buildings, churches, piazzas and more.
Ragusa, similarly devastated by the earthquake, took a different approach, rebuilding some of their original city but also adding to it, creating 2 separate districts. In Modica, which was not as severely affected, there was still a need for a large rebuilding project, especially in one hillside neighborhood.
The work was all done in a consistent Baroque style, which is why these cities (and other nearby towns) were made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1992.
Noto
Start your day in Noto with a traditional Sicilian breakfast – granita and brioche, made with seasonal ingredients and the perfect beginning to a day of exploring. Wander the perfectly-proportioned streets, dip into a church or two and climb the narrow steps up inside the bell tower of the Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso for rooftop views of the city.
Ragusa
Next it’s on to Ragusa to see the unique town perched on mountain slopes and the two halves of the city connected by a winding staircase. Notice the similarities and differences to Noto – Ragusans decided to rebuild in the same place, so there are some older remnants to see, like the ornate Gothic doorway of San Giorgio which is all that’s left of a church built in the 1300’s.
The Baroque cathedral of San Giorgio is the showstopper here, towering about street level with tall white columns reaching up into the sky.
Modica
Finally it is on to Modica. Built in a valley, the main street is at the base of the town, with the rest of it stretching up the hills either side. The uphill walk to the cathedral of San Giorgio (another one!) is well worth it to see how the streets and buildings layer up, and the cathedral itself is lovely inside and out. After retracing your steps, you can reward yourself with Modica’s distinctive chocolate.
Modica chocolate dates back to when the Spanish brought the cocoa bean back from their Aztec conquests. Processed without the addition of anything other than sugar and natural flavorings like lemon peel, cinnamon or nuts, the texture is more grainy than modern chocolate. It is also closer to dark chocolate in flavor. We really like the tasting options at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto – if you visit in summer, try their cold ‘hot’ chocolate drink, which is somehow refreshing and decadent at the same time.
While you can see all 3 in a day, to really get time to appreciate what’s on offer, we suggest picking 2 to focus on. Combine Ragusa and Modica and try all their local specialities or see Noto and Modica to understand the different approaches to rebuilding their towns. The best way to get to know these cities however is to stay in one of them and then you can see them all!
The Ancient Island of Ortigia
Siracusa and Ortigia island are usually on most people’s itineraries when they visit Sicily. The large archeological park of Siracusa is a huge draw, as are the charming streets of Ortigia, but the vast majority of visitors come for the day only.
For us, doing a quick day trip does this part of Sicily a disservice. There is so much more to enjoy and discover here, which is why we always try to spend at least one night in Ortigia.
Why Stay The Night?
As one of Sicily’s oldest settlements, Ortigia is small but compact. On this island you can find ancient Greek temple ruins, a fun market, tons of shopping options, the showstopping Duomo di Siracusa, noble palaces, seafront views, churches and more.
Yes, you can of course get round a lot of this in a day, but for us the charm of Ortigia is taking it slow. Enjoying a long lunch in one of the back street restaurants before visiting a few churches as they start to open. Exploring the archeological park at our own pace in the morning and then heading out for aperitivo in Piazza Duomo as the sun starts to set. Browsing the many stores along via Cavour and stopping for a gelato with a view of the sea. Visiting the market for seasonal produce and taking a cooking class before enjoying a classic Sicilian meal – there isn’t anything much more enjoyable than that.
Slowing down to match the local pace of life is difficult if you don’t stay locally. Trust us, when you’re sipping a great glass of wine paired with delicious food and watching the color of the sky change to a perfect pinky-orange, you won’t want to leave!
Exploring Vibrant Catania
Catania is Sicily’s second city (after the capital of Palermo) but most visitors only know it as the location of the island’s main airport. Located in southeastern Sicily, Catania is where you are most likely to land when you arrive, so the general perception of the city is somewhere to transit through, and not visit in its own right.
Originally we had the same opinion. However we have since come to get to know Catania better, and now this is one of our unmissable stops in Sicily.
What to See & Do in Catania
Catania is the ‘real’ Sicily, busy, chaotic and unpolished. Some parts initially seem unappealing and while it’s true that Catania does not have the instant charm of Ortigia or Taormina, you will be rewarded if you stick with it.
Start in Catania’s old town, at the magnificent cathedral of Saint Agatha. The foundations of the cathedral are ancient Roman baths, on which various churches and cathedrals have stood. The current cathedral was rebuilt after the same earthquake that damaged Noto, but inside you can see the layers of history.
Outside in the piazza make sure to admire the elephant in the central fountain. This fountain with its Egyptian-style obelisk was created in the 1700’s but the elephant itself is much older. Made the emblem of Catania in 1239, the elephant statue has long been important to the city but no one knows for sure where it came from!
For more history, you can visit the ancient Roman theater, a peaceful Benedictine monastery or the museum of the Allied landings in Sicily during World War II.
For us however, one of the main draws of Catania is the food. Home to some of our favorite markets anywhere in Italy, this city is foodie heaven. We highly recommend taking a market tour in order to get the most out of your visit, with a local guided tour able to introduce you to all sorts of street food, sweet treats and local dishes you might never taste otherwise!
Northwestern Sicily
Our final suggestion for how to discover Sicily in a different way is to head to the north west corner of the island. This is one of our go-to spots for when we want to switch off, filled with all sorts of things to do and see.
To reach this part of Sicily, start from Palermo, follow the coast road out past Palermo airport and keep going. After around an hour you’ll reach the town of Castellammare del Golfo, which is the gateway to this lesser-visited part of the island. From here you can go north to San Vito Lo Capo with its beautiful beaches and annual couscous festival, or across to Trapani and Marsala.
None of these places are free of visitors, especially in the summer when the beaches fill up with Italians enjoying their vacation. However to us there is something particularly appealing about the relaxed pace of life, wide open countryside and relatively undeveloped attractions.
Historical Sights
If your idea of learning about history involves being outside rather than in a museum, this is the place for you.
First up are two archaeological sites, Segesta and Selinunte. Selinunte is further away but if you like Pompeii or Ostia Antica, this is another huge excavated ancient city filled with Greek temples and more that you can explore – come prepared with walking shoes as it really is a big area to cover!
To us though, Segesta is one of the loveliest ancient sites we’ve ever seen. The home of a local Italic people called the Elymians, the city was founded before the arrival of the ancient Greeks so is incredibly old. They adopted some Greek customs, including the building of a theater and large temple, and while much of the city has not been excavated, those two have been fully uncovered.
The ruins are in the middle of nowhere, high up on some hills, surrounded by trees and plants. Standing on the steps of the windswept theater it is easy to see why this place has been captivating visitors for centuries.
For more ancient history, you should plan a trip to Erice. The town is perched on top of Mount Erice, high above Trapani below, and there has been some form of settlement here since between the 10th and 7th centuries BC. Erice in its current form was established under the Normans through the 13th century, and today you can walk the medieval streets, see the castles, towers and churches and admire the far-reaching views.
Marsala
South of Trapani is the city of Marsala, but rather than take the faster road, we always take the coastal route that weaves down past the historic salt flats. This has been a center for sea salt production for nearly 3000 years and still is the home of some of the best salt anywhere. We always get a few jars when we pass through!
There is plenty of history to dive into in and around Marsala (an ancient city called Lilybaeum originally was built here), but for us, it is all about the food and drink.
Marsala wine is a fortified wine, made with a mix of locally grown grapes. There are both dry and sweet versions, and if you think you know what this tastes like from sauces made with Marsala, think again. Complex and very drinkable, learning about Marsala wine and tasting the different types is a must-do activity while you’re visiting.
To pair with your wine, go for a selection of local dishes. We’ve had some of the best caponata of our life here, as well as incredible pasta and the regional couscous topped with fresh fish. We love the food here so much that we offer a special Marsala cooking experience to allow other people to try it for themselves!
Hopefully these suggestions have given you some ideas for how to discover Sicily in a different way, but if you would like more details or to talk to us about your options, feel free to get in touch so that we can share our love for this island with you.
