We love Palermo. The busy streets, loud locals, hot sun and historic buildings combine to create somewhere that is distinctive and so much fun to explore. As the capital city of Sicily, Palermo is filled with things to do but for us, one of the main draws is the food. Sicilian cuisine as a whole is absolutely delicious, but there is something extra special about the food in Palermo which always gets us excited to visit! Here are the 5 best things to eat in Palermo, based on our extensive taste tests over the years.
Arancina
We could not start our list with anything other than the arancina. An essential part of any visit to Palermo, this is the quintessential Sicilian street food. You will find these large stuffed rice balls all over Sicily and southern Italy, but the version in Palermo is supreme.
The first thing to remember is that in Palermo they are called arancine (plural) or a singular arancina. More commonly they are called arancini or an arancino, but in Palermo the distinction is important! Here you’ll find the arancine shaped in round balls, so when they are coated in breadcrumbs and fried they resemble ripe oranges. The rice itself is flavored with saffron too, giving it a yellow color, and the name is connected to the word for oranges – arancia.
Traditionally the interior of an arancina is filled with either ragù and peas or a buttery combination of mozzarella and cooked ham. However, nowadays you will see all sorts of other delicious fillings using Sicily’s incredible produce. Some of our favorite ingredients include Bronte pistachios, eggplant or pumpkin, so you can try all sorts of different versions while you’re visiting Palermo.
Panelle
Another classic Palermo street food is panelle, thin chickpea fritters which are served either by themselves or in a sesame bread roll (known as pane e panelle).
Made from a simple batter of chickpea flour, water and parsley or rosemary, the thick mixture is cut into slices before being fried. The edges get gloriously crispy and the savory flavor (enhanced with a little salt, pepper and maybe a squeeze of fresh lemon juice) is much more than the sum of its parts.
Originally a cheap but nutritious meal for poorer people, panelle are now a go-to lunch or snack in Palermo. You’ll see them on restaurant menus and being made fresh on street stalls in the Ballaro and Capo market areas, and the quality is always excellent (locals won’t stand for bad versions!) so make sure to try panelle at least once.
We always make sure to include a panelle stop on our Palermo street food tour so if you join us as we explore the city center markets, you’ll be able to taste one of the best things to eat in Palermo. As an added bonus, when served plain, panelle are both naturally vegan and gluten free so they are ideal for everyone.
Frutta Martorana
Next up in our list of the best things to eat in Palermo Sicily are frutta Martorana, which are definitely for those of us with a sweet tooth!
These delicacies are made with a paste of almond flour, sugar and a little honey, creating something similar to marzipan. The paste is formed into the shape of different fruits, which are then decorated to make them look authentic. Creating frutta Martorana is a true art form, and the vibrant, colorful trays on display makes them hard to resist.
One of the reasons we love these, beyond how they taste, is the history of how the frutta di Martorana were created, and their connection to places you can still visit today.
In the late 12th century, a local family founded a Benedictine monastery complex in Palermo. Their name was Martorana, so the complex and church were referred to as “della Martorana“. A community of nuns lived here for centuries, and the story goes that during one winter, an important person (perhaps the pope or a king) was due to visit them. The fruit trees were bare, so the nuns created their own versions from almonds to decorate the gardens for the visit.
Over time the preparation and sharing of frutta Martorana became associated with All Souls Day on November 2, but you will find them year-round in Palermo.
I Segreti del Chiostro
Across the piazza from the Martorana church (which is a must-see) there is a particularly special place to try frutta Martorana and other classic Sicilian desserts.
Another community of nuns was established at the complex of Santa Caterina, opposite that of the Martorana, in the 14th century. These nuns became famous for the pastries and sweets they would make to sell for feast days, and they only stopped doing so in the 1980’s when the community was shrinking (the order closed in 2014).
The complex was taken over by the government and as part of their restoration work, a special cafè was opened in the monastery cloister. Called I Segreti del Chiostro (The Secrets of the Cloister), this arose out of a project to preserve and pass on the recipes and methods of the nuns.
We always make time for a stop here when we’re in Palermo. Not only is the preservation of ancient recipes important, the sweets are unbelievably good. A few frutta Martorana are essential, but you also can choose from the cassata topped with candied citrus, minne di vergine (soft cookies filled with a citrus jelly and ricotta cheese), or the freshly-prepared cannoli. Once you have made your selection, take a seat in the cloister and enjoy!
Sfincione
Street food is a big deal in the city, and another one of our favorite things to eat in Palermo is sfincione. The name comes from the Arabic word for a soft dessert, referring to the texture of the bread-based snack, and is thought to have been created by yet another convent of nuns in Palermo around the 17th century.
Sometimes referred to as Sicilian pizza, sfincione is made with soft pizza dough that is topped with a thick onion and tomato sauce, anchovies, grated cheese, oregano and toasted breadcrumbs. When the sfincione bakes, the toppings meld into the bread to create an almost caramelized layer over the soft, bouncy base. None of the flavors are too strong, and because the local produce is of such high quality, the final result is absolutely delicious!
As with panelle and arancine, sfincione is all about making the most of simple ingredients. Large trays of sfincione are baked each day, ready to be sliced and served. You will find it for sale in local bakeries as well as stalls in the Capo, Ballaro and Vucciria market streets, but rarely in a restaurant. Despite its nickname of Sicilian pizza, sfincione is seen as a street food, and is not usually found on menus – even in dedicated pizza restaurants.
Pasta alla Palermitana
The best food in Palermo isn’t always street food – although the Palermo street food scene is especially strong! One of our favorite dishes is pasta alla Palermitana, or pasta con le sarde. This pasta dish brings together all the classic Palermo ingredients in one place, and while you won’t find it everywhere, many of the best restaurants in the city will have a version on their menu.
The pasta sauce is made with wild fennel that has been boiled until tender, and then cooked in a pan with anchovies, raisins, pine nuts, sardines and a little saffron. Tossed with freshly cooked pasta, the final dish is served with toasted breadcrumbs on top.
This really is Palermo on a plate. The wild fennel grows everywhere here, with its green fronds having a much more mild taste than the classic fennel bulbs found elsewhere. Raisins, pine nuts and saffron were all introduced under Arab rule in the 9th century, which Palermo was significantly influenced by. Sardines have been a popular protein source here too for a long time, being inexpensive and found in huge amounts in the waters around Palermo.
Taste Your Way Through Palermo Sicily
These are the 5 best things to eat in Palermo according to us, but until you’ve been here yourself and tasted all the local delicacies, you won’t know if you agree or not! Other suggestions for the best food in the city that have come from people who we have helped experience the city include the famous Sicilian brioche con gelato, the veal spleen sandwich in the markets, or a baked aneletti pasta dish, so there is a lot to discover here.
We adore Palermo, and have curated a variety of ways for visitors to experience the city. Join us as we explore the famous Palermo markets and taste lots of Palermo street food, learn about Sicilian wine in a private wine tasting or dine with locals to try seasonal dishes.
Enjoy good food and learn about the rich history of Palermo at the same time with Casa Mia – contact us today to find out more about how we can create your ideal Palermo experience.
